Shovel, rake, hoe ... and medium sized rototiller. You can get it done with those if you can get leaves and grass clippings (do not use if the neighbor had weed killer put down). The tractor above is overkill - but at $250 it was a bargain.
I've been buying and selling all the machinery and they all become the 'right tool' in different cases. But I'm ready to dump them all.
In my system, the steps are:
1. with a truckload of manure (must be aged manure if in spring - can be fresh if done before winter), spread with a shovel. Depending on your organic matter content, you may need lots of manure. In that case, get a dump truck (rented at Home Deport or hired).
2. lightly till it in
3. before seeding you beds, dig each bed down to a spades depth and only slightly turn. You do not want to totally upset the organisms in their layers. But you do want to get organic material spread to lighten the tilth. Lightly chop any shovelfuls that are nasty, dense dirt to make the next step of tilling easier. Note: a broad fork seems logical here - after prying down on the handle, pry up and kick in the organic material - but I've yet to get one.
4. scoop out your paths. I don't go to deep - but this trench is important. Toss the dirt up onto the bed.
5. now till again - if you still have more manure, add it before tilling.
6. rake it smooth. You now have soil ready for a raised bed.
7. using the handle of the rake, impress you rows into the soft soil. You get nice straight rows and the pressure on the soil squeezes the air out - reestablished the water wicking properties.
Done! With Prep 101
Prep 102 - added techniques
1. I have water drainage problems. So first I installed some drain pipe in the worst areas. Second I use hugelkultur to further lift the bed. Basically dig a trench, put in a layer of rotting wood (should feel like balsa wood) and organic matter, toss back the soil. Don't make a solid level of wood. Allow some channels for pure soil - in other words, a coarse net.
2. Paths - after the weeds start growing in the paths, loosen the path soil (shovel or fork). Put down a layer of Fall leaves preferably run through the mulching mower. Then some long straight sticks (distributes the weight when walking on the path) and finally straw (give it a nice look). I have a source for spoiled straw, so nutrients are trickling into the leaves for worms and roots to work over for the next year.
3. Rows of carrots and other long germination seeds are marked with mason string (is reusable when all your beds are a uniform 15 feet), or kite string - and I also put in a radish seed every one foot. Carrots also get a cover of burlap - works wonders to prevent scorching and drying of soil!
Rules for easy weeding:
- You must hoe to knock back weeds - do it often (5 to 10 days) if you direct seed. If you can, transplanting is the way to go. But you direct seed things like beets and carrots.
- You must mulch ASAP. Use a light dusting grass clippings (you don't need much!). With string identifying the rows, you can start put down the clippings right away. I like the "hoe once" idea so strong weeds get set back one week to the crops.
- As you till, you must pull up the rhizomes of quack grass, fescues, bind weed, etc. Then when you rake, do it again. This takes time the first years. But it must be done. Sorry you got stuck with a crappy location ;-)
- if the weeds got away from you during vacation - get a weed wacker - set it to a short string length - and grind them to the ground. Mulch again heavily.
- if the weeds overran your carrots, just get the lawnmower out, cut the whole garden bed. Then watch how the carrots (with root reserves) bounce back way ahead of the the other weeds. Mulch again heavily.
Any suggestions for improvements or tips that worked for you?
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